Buying a Used Car from Facebook Marketplace? What to Check Before You Pay

Cars
September 23, 2025

Buying a Used Car from Facebook Marketplace? What to Check Before You Pay

By Josh Higgins

Buying a car on Facebook Marketplace, Gumtree, or Carsales can feel like striking gold, but it pays to be a detective. We’ll walk through each step, gearboxes, brakes, tyres and all with Aussie tips (NRMA-style) so you don’t end up with a dud.

Verifying the Ad and the Seller

First up, size up the ad and who’s selling. Is the story consistent? Ask yourself: Why is this person selling? If they can’t give a solid answer, or the price is miles below market, alarm bells should ring.

Make sure the seller is really the owner. In Australia, you should ask to see the rego papers (certificate of registration) and compare the name on them with the car’s details. The official logbook or rego papers should list the VIN/chassis number, and this must match the plate on the car.

VIN, PPSR, and Rego Checks

Next, confirm the car’s identity and history on paper. First off, note the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) on the car; it’s usually etched on the dashboard or driver’s door jamb. Make sure that the VIN matches exactly what’s on the rego papers. This step verifies that the car is the one in the paperwork.

Then do a PPSR check (Personal Property Securities Register) on the VIN. It costs about $2 but is critical. As the official PPSR site explains, this search will tell you if the car has any outstanding debt or is recorded as stolen or written off. In other words, it shows any security interest or a total-loss history.

In many states, you can also do a free rego check online for basic details.

Odometer and Service History

In Australia, it’s illegal under the Consumer Law to fiddle with a car’s odometer, so a mismatched odometer is a big red flag. Always compare the dash reading with the service logbook entries. WA Consumer Protection advises: look at the last recorded odometer reading in the logbook and compare it to the car’s current reading. If the current reading is lower than the last service entry, the odometer has almost certainly been rolled back.

Also watch for inconsistencies: an interior that looks well-used (worn pedals, faded trim or upholstery) but a very low odometer, or vice versa, is suspicious. A competent mechanic can often spot these mismatches. For example, if the driver’s seat is heavily creased and the steering wheel is shiny-worn, but the dash only says 20,000km, the clutch or odometer may be going south.

Condition Walkaround

Now get hands-on. Inspect the exterior and interior carefully for wear or damage. Use a systematic checklist:

Body panels and paint: Walk around and look for dents, scratches, or panel misalignment. Uneven gaps between doors or mismatched paint (especially around bumpers and guard seams) often indicate past accidents or repairs. Run your hand along the door edges and bumpers, feel for rough body filler under the paint. Check the headlamps, taillights and indicators for cracks or fogging. Make sure all windows and mirrors are intact.
Tyres (including spare): Examine all tyres for tread and wear. Aussie law requires at least 1.5mm tread depth, but experts recommend replacing above ~3mm for safety. Look for uneven wear across each tyre; this could signal alignment or suspension issues. Don’t forget to inspect the spare tyre in the boot and check that the jack/keys are present, as replacing a cut tyre roadside can be a pain.
Engine bay and fluids: Pop the bonnet and inspect the engine bay. Look for clean and securely clamped hoses, and no obvious cracks in belts or hoses. Check the oil level and colour on the dipstick; it should not be low, and the oil shouldn’t look gritty or milky (that could indicate water ingress). Coolant should be up near the top mark and a green/orange/pink colour (no floating oil). These checks can give clues to leaks or neglect.
Interior features: Sit in the driver’s seat. Test every switch and control windows, locks, lights, wipers, horn, mirrors and stereo should all work smoothly. Turn on the air-con and heater briefly (even in winter) to ensure they work. Smell the cabin, a musty or mouldy odour might signal water leaks. Inspect the upholstery and carpets for tears, stains or sun damage. Lift the floor mats and check underneath for damp patches. Ensure all seatbelts are working.
Odometer and clocks: One more interior check, all the dashboard gauges and warning lights. When you turn the ignition on (engine off), all dashboard lights should illuminate briefly (including the check-engine lamp) and then go off once you start the engine. Any light (engine, ABS, airbag, etc.) that stays on after start needs investigation.

Test Driving

Time to drive it. The road test is where many secrets show up. Key things to feel and hear:

Transmission and gearbox: If it’s a manual, the clutch pedal should engage smoothly and not “cling” to the floor.

Braking: Test the brakes gently at first, then firmly. Pedal travel should feel firm and consistent, not spongy.

Steering and suspension: The steering should feel tight, not loose. On a straight, flat road, let go briefly (in a traffic-free area), the car should track straight and not wander.

Engine and noise: Listen carefully during the drive and as the engine idles. The engine should start crisply (no hesitations) and run smoothly without misfires or odd ticks.

Warning lights and electronics: After the drive, check the dashboard again for any new warning lights.

Clutch Check (Manual Cars)

In a manual, the clutch deserves special attention. A well-worn clutch can fail soon after purchase, so check its feel. Depress the clutch pedal in neutral; it should feel firm and not stick to the floor. Then test-engage first gear gently: the clutch should grab (engage) smoothly at a steady point, not suddenly or way up near the top of travel (that indicates it’s thinned out). Shift gears a few times from a stop; any crunching or difficulty finding neutral is bad news. Also, try a “stall test”: start in first gear on flat ground, release the clutch abruptly; if the engine dies too easily or with a burnt smell, the clutch grip might be gone.

If you spot these signs (or if anything feels off), treat it seriously. Clutch jobs are vital for your car, so factor that into price negotiation, as it might be time for a clutch repair. Many specialists (like Shift Automotive Bundaberg, who I highly recommend) offer clutch repairs, so a professional can quickly diagnose the issue and repair it for you.

Final Payment, Roadworthy and Rego Transfer

When you’ve done all the checking and are ready to buy, handle the final steps carefully.

Payment: Never pay in full until you have the keys, the papers, and you’ve seen the car. The safest method is a bank transfer or bank cheque given at the time of handover, not an online payment or cash in front of a camera. Write a simple receipt with vehicle details, VIN, sale price and both parties’ details. Some states (like VIC) have an official Notice of Disposal and use it.

Rego transfer: After the sale, you must transfer the rego into your name within the required period (usually 14 days). Each state has its own process.

Safety and Scam Tips for Meetups

Finally, stay safe when actually meeting to inspect or buy the car. The police and consumer groups urge caution on private sales. Whenever possible, arrange the meeting in a public, well-lit place (like a shopping centre carpark or a busy petrol station) during daylight. Bring a friend or family member along; even the mere presence of someone else can deter trouble. If the seller insists on meeting somewhere secluded, that’s a red flag.